Всі записи автора modoslav

Hi, I'm Ukrainian fashion blogger Mуroslav Melnyk. I'm a Ph.D. in "The theory and history of Art", I'm also the author of the study guide "Fashion Industry".

STYLE ICON: GIBSON GIRL

Gibson Girl

The woman in the illustrations by Charles Dana Gibson was the female ideal in the 1890s and 1910s. Gibson began creating these drawings around 1890, using various models. Evelyn Nesbit – an American model, chorus girl, and actress – was one of tham.

The most famous Gibson Girl was probably the Belgian-American stage actress, Camille Clifford, whose high coiffure and long, elegant gowns that wrapped around her hourglass figure and tightly corseted wasp waist defined the style.

After Gibson’s marriage in 1895, his wife Irene (Irene Langhorne Gibson) become a model for Gibson Girl. Gibson’s Girl became the archetype of American femininity of the upper and middle class, a fashion ideal, a role model.

Painting of Irene Langhorne Gibson by Charles Dana Gibson (fragment)

The Gibson’s Girl look wasn’t an easy feat to achieve. She was immaculately beautiful, with a voluminous hairstyle framing her face. She was slender, narrow-waisted, and attractively sensual. Often, dressed very exquisitely, she played sports with enthusiasm and skill. Most importantly, the Gibson Girl had a confident grace and cold confidence, was independent in relationships with men, showed a sense of humor and attitude to life, which was then associated with a “new woman”. Gibson’s girl, however, was less controversial than the new woman; she wasn’t a suffragist, didn’t get involved in politics.

The image of not a living, but just a painted Gibson Girl was imitated in the United States and Europe. After all, the Gibson Girl was always dressed in the latest, trendiest fashion. Gibson himself said, “I haven’t really created a distinctive type- the nation made the type…There isn’t any “Gibson Girl,” but there are many thousands of American girls and for that let us all thank God”.

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Лекції Мирослава Мельника

Haute Couture ss 2022: the best collection of the season

Fendi ss 2022 Haute Couture , collage by Modoslav

Very often, less is better. In our time saturated with visual (and not only) images, excessive fashions look ridiculous. Kim Jones for his Fendi ss 2022 Haute Couture collection with minimal means, achieved the maximum result. Simple classic silhouettes, black, gray, red, blue (but what beautiful red and blue) colors, as well as images of ancient statues and textured ornaments from the Renaissance, became a guide to the ancient Roman culture.

Fendi ss 2022 Haute Couture , collage by Modoslav
Fendi ss 2022 Haute Couture , collage by Modoslav
Fendi ss 2022 Haute Couture , collage by Modoslav

Jones’s muse was Rome, and he revealed the theme of the Eternal City with the Haute Couture craftsmanship and techniques: “It has so many layers to it. It’s such an ancient city,” he said. “We’re always thinking of the past, present, and future of it. The idea of different times and that very spiritual side of Rome, which becomes almost celestial; almost spacey.

Fendi ss 2022 Haute Couture , collage by Modoslav
Fendi ss 2022 Haute Couture , collage by Modoslav
Fendi ss 2022 Haute Couture , collage by Modoslav

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DISCOVERING: Pussy Pussy

Pussy Pussy
Pussy Pussy

For the query “Pussy Pussy“, Google returns scenes from the “Pornhub”. But in Fashion World Pissy Pussy “is a Brooklyn based, self-taught, wearable art designer, creating outrageous couture pieces for themself and other performance artists around the world”. The designer explains brand naming: “I definitely know my brand name plays a big role in the success of my brand because it’s vulgar“. Their work revolves around covering the human body and transforming it into an artistic creation made of shapes, patterns, colors, and textures.

Pussy Pussy

LOOK more at the official site: https://www.pissy-pussy.com

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Pussy Pussy

One of the best new-generation designers: Johannes Warnke

Johannes Warnke
Johannes Warnke

Johannes Warnke was raised in Germany and studied at Central Saint Martins in London. Since his graduation in the summer of 2020, his creations have garnered attention from the spheres of high fashion and performance: he designed the dress for Lady Gaga’s “911” video or the several gowns that outfitted Post Malone’s choir during the 2021 Grammys.

Post Malone’s choir during the 2021 Grammys

“I don’t see much of a difference between a painting or a sculpture and a couture piece,” says Johannes Warnke. “We might usually say that painting is art and that fashion isn’t necessarily. But I think art comes more with the message and the intention behind it, as well, perhaps, as with the skill set that’s involved in creating it.”

Johannes Warnke

“Couture isn’t about making historical dresses, but rather about what the artistic message is, what the artistic process is, and how much love and time was invested in it.”

“Couture, to me, has the same reasoning as a painting, sculpture, or installation, and I think that, if it’s done well, it’s a socio-political reflection of our time. Fashion should mainly be about exciting people and being part of a purposeful, positive, artistic expression, just like a theatre play is…”

Look also: Milano Vogue Talents Awards 2021 ЕМІЛІЯ ТОРЧІНІ

#ЛекціїМирославаМельника

Innovation Design Story from H&M

Innovation Design Story from H&M

For “Innovation Design Story” H&M has teamed up with stylist Ib Kamara and photographer Rafael Pavarotti. They developed the collection, which sets out to challenge the visual stereotypes associated with fashion. The collection promotes “love, use, re-use and recycle”.

The garments crafted for the Innovation Design Story have been created with sustainable fabrics, combining sustainably-sourced materials and scraps of discarded fabrics used in previous collections.  

Look also: TOP STYLIST FOR 2021: IB KAMARA

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#ЛекціїМирославаМельника

Fashion Christmas cards by Mela Koehler

Christmas card by Mela Koehler

Mela Koehler (1885-1960) was a conspicuous member of the Wiener Werkstätte (Vienna Workshop), an artistic collaboration for artists, artisans, designers, and architects.

Mela Koehler created about 150 postcards for the Wiener Werkstätte: typically fantasy fashion images, which served not as advertisements for actual clothes but as inspiration for women to experiment with their own attire. The cards celebrated popular fashion, and many were designed to celebrate holidays. Mela Koehler created for the Wiener Werkstätte some cards, celebrating Christmas and the winter season.

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THE BEST NATIONAL COSTUME AT MISS UNIVERSE 2021

Miss Universe Nigeria, Maristella Okpala, won the Best in National Costume award

Maristella Okpala, Miss Universe Nigeria, was awarded the Best National Costume at Miss Universe 2021. The 20-year-old Filipino student designer Kennedy Jhon Gasper is behind this costume. Last year Kennedy Jhon made the costume for miss Cameroon. It was only his second time designing a costume for Miss Universe. Despite that, he has created costumes for Miss Grand International Haiti 2021Miss Utah Teen USA 2021, and Miss Supranational Kenya 2021. Recently, he also won the Best in State costume for Miss Utah Teen USA 2021.

Angele Kossinda, Miss Universe Cameroon 2020

The traditional masquerade of the southeastern tribe of Nigeria called ‘Mmanwa’ inspired the costume. Moreover, the costume is made of African beads, stones, crafts. Additionally, the three feet tribal mask with the colorful ancient back cape featuring Mmanwa’s face ties everything perfectly.

Mmanwa mask

What’s more, Miss Universe Nigeria explained that it represents how the beautiful figure fought tirelessly to stop child mutilation and slavery. On the other hand, the patterns and embellishments portray the African dashiki which is meant to invoke the ancestral spirits.

African dashiki

Furthermore, she believes that the attire reflects her advocacy to protect children and women against abuse. Other than representing the rich cultural heritage, it also pays homage to the strong will of women.

Miss Universe Nigeria 2021 in traditional costume

The winners are not judged, but there were still many beautiful national costumes at the Miss Universe 2021 contest.

National Costume at Miss Universe 2021

Fashion illustrator Carl “Eric” Erickson

Carl Erickson

American Carl EricksonEric” (1891-1958) studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Chicago for two years. In 1914 he move to New York, and continued to illustrate for advertising. He debuted at Vogue in 1916, becoming a regular artist on the magazine. He fell in love and married a fellow Vogue illustrator, Lee Creelman.

Fashion illustration by Lee Creelman

They moved to Paris in 1920, where Erickson began illustrating for the French edition of Vogue and drawing society portraits. He developed a working relationship with French fashion designers Pierre Balmain and Cristóbal Balenciaga.

Carl Erickson

Carl Erickson used many different types of media included charcoal, pencil, Chinese ink, watercolor, and gouache.  His illustrations and society portraits were characterized by loose brush strokes and color washes, though his preferred medium was charcoal.

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Carl Erickson

 Rei Kawakubo  for Vienna State Opera

Rei Kawakubo  for Vienna State Opera

In 2019 Comme des Garcons designer Rei Kawakubo has created the costumes for the Vienna State Opera production of Virginia Woolf’s Orlando. The complete list of outfits included 72 for the main chorus; yet more for three completely different choruses; and 62 principal costumes, taking the Orlando story even further than its original sweep from the Elizabethan age to the early 20th century.

Rei Kawakubo  for Vienna State Opera

In her interviews, Kawakubo likes to tell that Comme des Garcons is “nothing about the clothes”: “I have always started from zero, trying to make something that didn’t exist before,” she told Dezeen at the time. “The process of creation is done mostly by words and imagination.” The effect on stage was exceptional, from the rich colors and fabrics to the sense of theatricality melded with reality. It was a visual Mad Hatter’s tea party, but every garment, hair-do, and hat was imbued with historic references, often illusive but always striking.

Rei Kawakubo  for Vienna State Opera

I was intrigued to find out that the very conservative, traditional and primarily repertory opera house had commissioned an avant-garde de woman composer to write an opera to celebrate their 150 year anniversary,” explained Kawakubo.

“Hair Creation” was provided by Rei’s long-term collaborator, Julien d’Ys, who produced wondrous hair-dos in all their curly craziness. Stephen Jones, milliner extraordinaire, was another element. 

Julien d’Ys Hair Creations

Look also: Готьє для театру (Gaultier for the theater)

#лекціїМирославаМельника

DISCOVERING: Miriam Martínez Abellán

Miriam Martínez Abellán

Miriam Martínez Abellán ia visual artist and teacher based in Murcia (Spain). She holds a degree in Art History from the University of Murcia and a Diploma in Piano from the Conservatory of Music. She found her true artistic expression in analogue collage (handmade).

Miriam Martínez Abellán

Far from digital, she prefers a direct and emotional experience with the materials. She collects vintage aesthetic images from photographs, postcards, old books or magazines, objects with history and various elements. Her work can be found in galleries such as Modus Operandi (Madrid), Artevistas Gallery and Miscelánea (Barcelona) or on the international art platform queartetienes.com. Her studio located in Murcia.

Website of Miriam Martínez Abellán http://www.miriammartinezabellan.com/

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Miriam Martínez Abellán