The new collection by Lubtsia Chernikova was shown march 25 at Lviv Fashion Week fw 2016/2017.Collection entitled “Today”, because today is a moment between the past and the future, it’s what happens now: we get up in the morning and go to bed at night, between this we try to achieve our goals and become happy. Today is a time to act. The main motives of the Chernikova’s collection are two most popular types of Ukrainian embroidery – Poltava and Borshchiv vyshyvanka, which are unique folk artifacts, well known abroad. This season the designer tried to interpret and revive this traditions in its collection, using homespun hemp and linen, suede, velvet, silk, cotton, wool, fur decorated with natural cotton lace and velvet ribbon.
The old photos always touched and inspired me. They always ask the question: who were these people? How they lived?
Old time photos with Ukrainian national costumes are very special for me. They show us how Ukrainians loved and appreciated their traditional culture through different times and circumstances.
At the top photo is movie star Sophia Loren during her visit to Poltava Region for shooting the film “Sunflower” (1970). Pictured below – frame from the film “Chervona Ruta” (1971).
Pictures belov – covers of Ukrainian fashion magazine “Krasa i Moda” (“Beauty &Fashion”) – for more look here.Today, at the beginning of 21-st century, we also can see how styling and some elements of traditional Ukrainian dress enrich contemporary fashion and raise the patriotic spirit of Ukrainians – majestic nation with very uneasy history. And also strong nation with very beautiful traditional costumes…
The last day at Ukrainian Fashion Week was the New Generation’s Day. Of course there was a risk that nobody comes to see unknown designers, that they show a trifle and spoil positive impression from all the fashion week. But talent of young Ukrainian designers overcame all fears and surpassed even my most optimistic expectations
New designers shows on the catwalk of Ukrainian Fashion Week is very important not only for the future career of individuals, but also for the whole Ukrainian fashion. It’s like some kind of litmus, which indicates what forms the worldview of young people, haw good is designer education at Ukraine and what prospects will have Ukrainian Fashion tomorrow.
Collection ss-2015 by SVITLO is more about Ukrainian tradition, then about next summer fashion trends. But look at their honour, their adoration of Ukrainian authenticity! And it is not exploitation of underlined love for Ukraine in modern tough times – it’s their style, the DNA that was formed during five years.
The artist Marina Rybalko successfully debuted last year at MBKFD. But at Ukrainian Fashion Week the collection RYBALKO was a very pleasant discovery for me: forms, materials, the combination of textures and colours, prints and accessories – all that working together to create an integrated clear image.
LARA QUINT has also taken part in Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days and won the Be Next competition in Georgia. The designer is already known for her conceptual and ironic vision of fashion, which once again was proved in collection ss-2015 «ESC». I was most amused by handbags, which looks like the computer keys.
YANA CHERVINSKA covered the Ukrainian Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2015 wit her collection “Tea Party” – very beautiful and interesting stylisation of Lewis Carroll’s characters, led by the Mad Hatter. Bright images was supplemented mainly with funny slippers that looked a very witty ironic accent.
Design studio SVITLO was created by Svetlana Kubrak and Natalya Shevchuk in 2011. Studio located in Kiev and manufacture the very special clothing and accessories, based on traditional Ukrainian culture. Designers adapt ethno through the prism of fashion trends, comfortable forms and ecological materials.
Each product of SVITLO is a result of handicraft, full of love and mental light. Designers believe, that when things are embroidered with a soul, they radiate the light. Everything they make, they make it like for themselves or like for God.
Nowadays goods by SVITLO are very fashionable in Ukraine, but designers understand, that fashion is fleeting. There are mountains of trendy clothing, that loses it’s attraction each new season. So they make things that you can leave to your children or even grandchildren. They also make a necklaces with the beads from your mother’s necklace. Even more – almost every thing from SVITLO has some vintage items. So every thing is unique and it’s very precious in the world of fashion, which is so full of cheap Chinese merchandise.
Vyshyvanka (embroidered shirt) is the most important item of Ukrainian traditional costume. The story of vyshyvanka goes back centuries. The ancient historian Herodotus notes that Scythian apparel was decorated with embroidery. This garment has withstood the test of time and continues to represent Ukrainian people while adapting to the modernity.
The embroidery of vyshyvanka is rich and varied. The motives of ornaments, composition, colours were handed down from generation to generation. All this varies depending on the region of origin. In ancient times people even could guess what village a person came from just from the embroidery on the vyshyvanka.
The original meaning of ornaments and colors on vyshyvanka was symbolic – it protects the wearer from evil and sin. Now people think about the meaning of embroidery much less, vyshyvanka has become a stylish clothes. Today you can see it on the streets, on the catwalks and in the halls of fashion weeks and fashion days across the Ukraine. The most popular fashion designer, who present vyshyvankas in her collections is Roksolana Bogutska from Lviv.
Lviv is a cultural center of Westen Ukraine, where vyshyvanka is extremely popular. Wearing traditional Ukrainian embroidered shirts, people demonstrate their love to the Ukraine and the honour of it’s traditions.
It was fall-winter 2007-2008 collection by Eduard Nasyrov for TM“Stolichny”.
I make some collages with compositions of Hannah Sobachko (Hanna Sobachko-Shostak) – genious Ukrainian folk artist, who was a famous embroiderer at 1920-th and later become a master of decorative compositions on paper .
After visiting the Eurovision Song Contest 2005 in Kiev, Jean Paul Gaultier created very beautiful collections in which the influence of traditional Ukrainian costume was very noticeable. So Gaultier’s fall-winter 2005/2006 Haute Couture and spring-summer 2006 pret-a-porter collections were inspired by Ukraine.
The guest of honor at Jean Paul Gaultier fall-winter 2005/2006 Haute Couture was Kateryna Yushchenko, the wife of the president of the Ukraine. Every outfin at that show has Ukrainian name and all sectors in the show hall were named like Ukrainian regions.
Jean Paul Gaultier spring-summer 2006 pret-a-porter collection was rich of ethno elements, espessially embroidered blouses (vyshyvanka – the Ukrainian traditional clothing ).
Flashback: John Galliano’s fall-winter 2009/2010 collection was inspired by traditional Ukrainian costume. It was very fresh look at our ethnic culture and very creative work with forms, cut and decoration. The fashion journalists have called this collection “The frosen bride”, becouse Galliano styled traditional ukrainian headwear like a veil & embroidered shirt (vyshyvanka) like a wedding dress.