ISSEY MIYAKE has died. He was great fashion designer, innovator, and artist. He created the brand with very strong DNA. One of my favorite ISSEY MIYAKE art-collections is a coat series inspired by instruments playing together at a session. The sax, trumpet, contrabass, piano, and drums graphics, which each have different colors, were designed by the graphic design unit GOO CHOKI PAR. The hooded coat is characterized by its light yet supple texture and relaxed feel.
Johannes Warnke was raised in Germany and studied at Central Saint Martins in London. Since his graduation in the summer of 2020, his creations have garnered attention from the spheres of high fashion and performance: he designed the dress for Lady Gaga’s “911” video or the several gowns that outfitted Post Malone’s choir during the 2021 Grammys.
“I don’t see much of a difference between a painting or a sculpture and a couture piece,” says Johannes Warnke. “We might usually say that painting is art and that fashion isn’t necessarily. But I think art comes more with the message and the intention behind it, as well, perhaps, as with the skill set that’s involved in creating it.”
“Couture isn’t about making historical dresses, but rather about what the artistic message is, what the artistic process is, and how much love and time was invested in it.”
“Couture, to me, has the same reasoning as a painting, sculpture, or installation, and I think that, if it’s done well, it’s a socio-political reflection of our time. Fashion should mainly be about exciting people and being part of a purposeful, positive, artistic expression, just like a theatre play is…”
Matthew Stone is a London-based artist, whose notable projects include the cover work for FKA Twigs’ recent ‘Magdalene’ album. His style is a balance between “traditional brush strokes and digital manipulation,” signifying an interesting technique.
Matthew Stone’s latest work includes an editorial for Korean eyewear brand Gentle Monster who debuted its Spring/Summer 2020 ‘MY MARS’ collection. The styles featured in this launch include the ‘Makina,’ the ‘Kalo,’ the ‘Circle T,’ the ‘Krow’ and the ‘Regina.’ Both Gentle Monster’s products, as well as the creative lookbook by Matthew Stone, betray “surreal and futuristic” vibes, facilitating an interesting aesthetic.
The whole composition brings to mind Hellenistic bas-reliefs, heroic images of the Renaissance. Drawing on the graphic possibilities offered by the latest technology, Matthew Stone breaks the genre divisions and removes the riddle of what the art of the future will look like. It makes painting, sculpture and photography no longer exist, as they are replaced by a spectacular multidisciplinary hybrid.
Maxime Ballesteros is a Berlin based photographer, who was born in Lyon, France. His photos captures fetishism, sex, parties. Maxime Ballesteros said: “My work is really about questioning and interpreting our reality, our time, the world and life we try to create and are destructing. And sexuality definitely plays a key role in it.”
Maxime Ballesteros site: https://www.maximeballesteros.com/
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In the Guo Pei Couture Spring-Summer 2020 collection, the Chinese designer took us on a journey to the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas.
For Guo Pei the Himalayas are a holy place, the residence of the gods, and the sacred temple of the soul, where the spirit soars to reach the divine.
However, Guo herself has never been to the Himalayas: “What I present in the show is just my own interpretation of this mysterious, spiritually powerful place,” she said. “When I was young, in my heart, Haute Couture was like the Himalayas, the top of a pyramid for me.”
Continuing her spiritual theme, Guo embroidered traditional Buddhist Tangkas on reconstructed fabrics. The Buddhas of the three realms and the mysteries of the circle of life were lavishly depicted in three-dimensional gold thread motifs on thick brocades. This rich fabric was cut into tubular capes that stretched across the floor or into Imperial mantles, completely lined with white tulle ribbons that painstakingly twisted into rosettes to resemble soft snow-white fur. In the designer’s vision, it was a symbol of purity: “they are the snow goddesses,” she said.
Simple silhouettes inspired by kimonos and Tibetan clothing evolved into more sophisticated ideas. The final look of the show was also quite impressive: a ceremonial brocade cape with a majestic train, an exquisite Buddhist Tangka embroidered with gold threads, pearls and precious stones on the back. It looked spectacular.
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Photographer: Luis Monteiro. Stylist: Kristine Kilty. Hair: Christopher Gatt. Makeup: Julie Jacobs. Model: Alexina Graham.
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Vaccarello’s shows for Saint Laurent always were great. Mostly designer spoke of celebrating a woman’s power and her own sense of self.
Collection was not very new, but it was very Yves: the classic YSL palette—fuchsia to purple to emerald to hot pink. After the show, Vaccarello laughed and said he’d only gone so colorful because he was always being told that he only does black, and that it might be a one-season-only excursion. Vaccarello also explained that he explicitly returned to the codes that defined YSL house in the 1990s.
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In 2016 his graduate collection won the H&M Design Award, in 2018 Queen Elizabeth II attended Richard Quinn’s Autumn/Winter 2018 runway show at London Fashion Week to inaugurate him Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. Also in 2018 designer took British Fashion Award as Emerging Talent Women’s Wear.
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